Eight Great London Art Collections

Whilst The National, Tate Britain and the V&A might have the international notoriety, there are still many more historical art collections in London to get excited about.

Kenwood House
Kenwood House is the complete package: big name collection, architecturally marvelous and blessed with a killer view of the metropolis. The Scottish neoclassicist, Robert Adam, redesigned this quiet suburban villa in the 18th century and thanks to him it’s been featured in many a movie (Notting Hill, 101 Dalmations). Vermeers, Rembrandts, Turners and Gainsboroughs battle for supremacy indoors but the vibrant red colour scheme of the Great Room surely deserves the biggest “wow”. The picturesque lakeside parklands pull a few surprises too: Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth sculptures alongside the odd real-life artist utilizing the inspiring scenery. A stroll is therefore mandatory. The meals at the courtyard Brew House cafe are clearly popular, the locals come by the dozen. But don’t fret, it doesn’t get too busy, even on weekends. Leave the rental car at home, though, as parking is limited. Overall, a couple of hours well spent in the AM, leaving the PM for meandering around the trendy Hampstead area. Well done The English Heritage for doing such a good job of maintaining it.
www.english-heritage.org.uk

The Wallace Collection
This is one of London’s best kept secrets, so let’s keep it that way. Not unlike The National Gallery, but thankfully without the throng of humanity. 28 rooms and 5,500 objects, far too much to be seen in just one go; so plan for a second visit and be sure to take advantage of the free tours that occur almost daily. The overall feeling is French: sculptures, Boulle furniture, Sèvres porcelain, and oodles of French 17th and 18th century objets d'art. Added to these are a variety of temporary exhibitions, medieval and Renaissance armor (some of which you can try on) and resident paintings by Velàzquez, Reynolds, Delacroix and van Dyck (dont miss ‘The Laughing Cavalier’ by Hals). £10m was spent on this Edwardian mansion in recent years. The result? New galleries AND a new restaurant. Overseen by Oliver Peyton—who also runs the dining experiences at The National, The ICA and Fulham Palace—The Wallace Restaurant is dramatically lit by a spectacular glass atrium. The menu is understandably French and the service can be a bit hit-and-miss.

www.wallacecollection.org

Estorick Collection
This is the UK’s only museum dedicated solely to Italian art. Housed in a grade II listed restored Georgian villa, this collection of Italian paintings, drawings, etchings and sculpture is small, very niche and of limited range. Six galleries contain some temporary exhibits but the nucleus of the permanent work rests with the early 20th century Futurists Balla, Boccioni, Carrá, Serverini and Russolo. There are works by other artist that’re worth a peak; especially Modigliani’s famous "Retrato del doctor François Brabander’ portrait. If you’re an Italo-art nut then the art library is probably worth checking out (by appointment only though), but if your interests are more broad then the bookshop is a leisurely diversion. So too is the landscaped garden cafe which during the summer is perfect for those alfresco lunches. If the weather is less clement, head to The Marquess Tavern which is round the corner on Canonbury Street. The Marquess is constantly found lurking around those ‘Gastropub of the Year’ lists and is reputed to serve the best roast beef in the whole of the UK.
www.estorickcollection.com

Dulwich Picture Gallery
A large and venerable collection of 17th and 18th century European masters. So if you like Rembrandt, Murillo, Poussin, Watteau, Canaletto, Rubens, Van Dyck, Cuyp, Gainsborough, Raphael, Reynolds or Hogarth, prepare to be happy. The famous Victorian architect, Sir John Soanes, designed it and it was the first purpose-built public art gallery in the world. There are a handful of temporary exhibits each year but these are scant due to the permanent collection’s prolificness. It’s not far from the the vibrant up-and-coming Dulwich village and there’s a handful of quality eateries close by; like the modern European Beauberry House or the high-end Rosendale gastropub. The gallery cafe menu is a tad flavorless and probably only good for lighter lunches and chocolate cake. As the gallery is only a half-hour stroll through Dulwich Park, combine your visit with a trip to the Horniman Museum. Alternatively, try visiting on the evening of the third Thursday in the month as it stays open late especially for films, music, art activities and curatorial talks based around a central theme. Their snazzy new website is very useful, too.
www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk

The Fleming Collection
Probably the most worthy collection of Scottish art outside of Scotland itself. This is like a visit to the National Gallery of Scotland without the longhaul flight to Edinburgh. Scottish artists are notoriously overlooked in all of London’s major galleries and the Fleming Collection attempts to redress the balance. Originally a private corporate collection dating back over 40 years, The Fleming went public in 2002. Its oils, watercolours and sculptures date back from the late 1700s right up to the present day and include a substantial gathering of the Glasgow Boys—such as George Henry and John Lavery, the Scottish Colourists—Samuel John Peploe and Francis Campbell Boileau Cadell, and the Edinburgh School—William Gillies and Sir William McTaggart. In addition to the continual showcases, the museum holds up to four Scottish-themed temporary exhibits every year. What’s especially worth knowing, too, is that the American-style brasserie, Automat, is only a few hundreds metres around the corner.
www.flemingcollection.co.uk

The De Morgan
Unless you’re specifically a fan of the De Morgans—William and Evelyn—this might be too much of a trek. As it’s in Wandsworth, which is south west London proper, you might need a secondary reason for venturing so far: the Michelin star restaurant, Chez Bruce, on Wandsworth Common would suffice. The De Morgan Centre for the Study of 19th Century Art and Society, to give it its full name, has been open since 2002 and permanently shows works by the Victorian couple; aside from the very occasional programme of contemporary designers. His ceramics have been seen in the British Museum and the V&A, her paintings are obsessesed with colour. Enough to lure you? Well, the building itself is a former reference library built in celebration of Queen Victoria’s jubilee and has a particularly interesting wooden ceiling wich is worth noting. It’s also only open four days a week so check before travelling.
www.demorgan.org.uk

The Queen’s Gallery
This is the ultimate Nosey Nelly experience. 9000 pieces comprise the entire Royal Collection and yet The Queen’s Gallery can only hold about 400 of those. The problem, how to select from 500 years of collecting when the display venue is so tiny? The answer is twofold: high rotation and themed exhibits. The former is shared with locations such as Windsor Castle and Clarence House whilst the latter is usually guest-curated; recently Sir David Attenborough gathered works involving the world of nature. Some might feel a bit chagrined at paying the sizable entrance fee for seeing only part of the wider collection but what you’re buying into here is a wealth of quality and serious depth. Paintings, ceramics, furniture, sculpture, jewelry, drawings and a particularly fondness for the Old Masters. Plus, it’s worth noting the gallery was given a £20m expansion in 2002 which beefed up the square footage so there should be plenty to nose around. The Royal Mews next door are also fully operational and thus offer an interesting appendage.
www.royalcollection.org.uk

Somerset House
This one is a bit of a cheat as it’s actually two separate collections in one; a one-stop shop for museum lovers. Positioned poetically between the calm waters of the Thames and the hustle and bustle of London’s famous Strand, this grand palatial Neoclassic building should keep everyone interested. The first, and possibly most famous, stop-off is the Courtauld Institute of Art Gallery which includes impressionists like Monet and Gauguin as well as 20th century icons such as Matisse. It also boasts Van Gogh’s ‘Self Portrait with Bandaged Ear’. Just across the fabulous courtyard and beneath the vaulted arches is the new (April 08) 750m² Embankment Galleries which hopes to bring a contemporary flavour to the equation with subject matter ranging from fashion and design to photography and architecture.
www.somersethouse.org.uk