Brasserie Roux

Hotel Sofitel, Heathrow Terminal 5

It is true, Brasserie Roux can be found at Terminal 5. Only 21 minutes from Central London. According to their PR agents. Somehow I find that hard to believe. What about the journey to Paddington to catch the Heathrow Express? Or the ten minute walk through the shiny corridors and endless escalators of T5’s Arrivals area? It’s probably fair to say that Brasserie Roux is not 21 minutes from Central London at all. But it IS fair to say that Brasserie Roux’s unfortunate location is effectively its only flaw. Not everyone will get to ride this pony but if you are eating here it’s extremely likely you’ll already be in the vicinity. This is businessman country and it’s easy to envisage great herds of suits making this a regular feeding hole in the not-too-distant future. Especially as a five-star hotel, 1000-capacity conference centre and brand new airport have been propitiously built around the restaurant.
There are scenes often used in movies which portray the step-up to the afterlife like some kind of subdued waiting lounge. Quiet background announcements, soft music, bright clean walls, and God, possibly played by Morgan Freeman, sat silently in a pure white suit, admiring the golden-hued sunshine beaming in through the floor-to-ceiling windows. Well, that’s Brasserie Roux; only with better food.

This brand spanking 80-seater is an oasis in a modern space, cleverly slotted between between two separate wings of the Sofitel Hotel. You tend to notice the high ceiling, the mirrors, the red curtains, the mirrors, the leather benches, the mirrors, the room within a room, the mirrors and the strategically-placed water features and faux palm trees that create a soothing atmos and conveniently disguise the stunning view of the Western Perimeter Overpass BEFORE you notice the food. And you’d have them fellas that did that Burj al Arab Dubai hotel to thank for that.

Gastronomic celeb restaurateur, Albert Roux OBE, whose main hobby is collecting Michelin stars, waved his magic wand of brilliance over Brasserie and turned everything a little bit Roux. He’s not all that bad either; he won the 2008 Silver Catey award with brother Michael, beating off opposition from upstarts like Gordon Ramsay, Marco Pierre White and Sir Terence Conran. As such, the menu couldn’t be more French even if it fashioned cufflinks out of garlic and married a supermodel.

The starters are a traditional roll call: duck foie gras, check; terrine du jour, check; lobster bisque, you’d be Le Bonkers not to check. Or there’s the mushroom purée and pike mousse, which the charming maitre D’ will insist you try.

The mains’ll come at you with words like sole limande meunière and cuisse de canard but whilst they are adequately alluring there is only one phrase you really need to know: Châteaubriant pour deux personnes sauce à la bordelaise, s'il vous plaît. Heavenly beef delivered on a trolley, carved right in front of you and served with a Jenga-like chip stacks. Just remember, the chef IS French so asking for ‘medium rare’ will affectively mean it’ll walk right up to your table by itself.

Desserts, just skip them, although the charming maitre D’ will insist you try the chocolate crème brulée. Instead, dive right into the honking cheese trolley. Oh, how the cheese trolley reigns supreme! Cantal and Roquefort are prominent silver medalists but the overall big cheese has to be the Livarot, aka The Colonel. It’s soft and strong and oddly reminiscent of a farmyard. And not some wet, muddy English farmyard either; no, this is a sun-drenched French farmyard that smells of hay and childhood revelry.

Wine connoisseurs, take note: knowledgeable staff hand pick wines that accompany every course, naturally from a trolley. Obviously Franco-leaning, especially the by-the-glass options, but the thick tome of worldly wines by the bottle takes in the Americas, the Antipodes, the Mediterraneans and many more. There’s a whole page of champers, French regionals, and even one bottle priced at £1600. Business account, HELLO! For the non-wine connoisseurs, here’s a simple tip: go with the Croze Hermitage. White or red, it doesn’t matter, as long as it matches the dish.

Overall, it’s the little touches that make Brasserie Roux so delicious: the detailed cheese menu; the TVs above the lavatory hand dryers; the private chef’s table with fog-switch viewing window to keep an eye on the chefs. Brassier Roux is good enough to abandon the idea of returning straight home after your long haul flight and to extend that holiday for at least another couple of hours. Alternatively, if you’re lucky enough to be leaving the UK, tell your boss he’s/she’s a having a laugh if he/she thinks you’re getting up at 3am for the red eye flight to Boring ConferenceVille. You would, however, consider the trip if it involved a leisurely night at the Sofitel and dinner at Brasserie Roux. Failing that, resign.

Detroit Social Club

As printed in the September edition of Clash magazine.

You know how the story goes: boy with voice meets boy with guitar who has a couple of mates that can play drums and keyboard. A band is formed, an image created, and only then do they start making music. Not so with Detroit Social Club. This tale is different: boy creates idea, idea gets well received, boy then seeks professional aides to complete the setup. The music is already present. Ostensibly, DSC is a solo project - one David Burn - that happens to have an attachment: a band. If this were the movies, Burn would be the auteur. He alone sees it from spark to roaring fire. As a whole entity, the six-piece DSC have only been together for a few months, yet Burn believes “this project has actually been alive for over a year, from when I first started demo-ing this sort of sound”.

Burn hails from Newcastle, where he’s been producing other studio bands for many years and where he first started to toy with his ideas. But although his roots are in Newcastle, Burn’s sound does not evoke the claustrophobic, narrow back corridors of his home town. His is the raw, expansive terrain of Kerouac America; the sound of Thelma and Louise hurtling along the highway of gospel soul, in search of a rainbow made of just blues.

“I had this new sound I wanted to experiment with” says Burns, in a broad North East accent, “I started getting into Americana. Not necessarily any particular bands, but more an overall interest.”

If there are comparisons to be made, then the obvious choices would be the hazy psychedelia of BRMC (‘Black & White’), the hiphop harmonisation of Beck (‘Soldiers’), the strutting riffs of Kasabian (‘Sunshine People’’) and the smoking distortion of Nick Cave (‘Forever Wonderland’); all fronted by Burn’s own rasping Kelly Jones vocal (‘My Love For You Goes On’). Despite these primary parallels, Burns quickly, and obliquely, dispels the notion of mimicry. “One of the strongest things about our music” he exclaims, proudly, “is that it’s not so much about songs but about a certain vibe, character and authenticity.”

DSC’s diverse range could be perceived as negative, something that will confuse listeners, but equally it could be indicative of humankind’s mercurial nature. “A song captures your mindset on one particular day,” says Burns, who denounces the idea of recording non-stop for long periods of time. “It’s so generic and fake. How can you capture different moods in one month?” Lucky for him, he’s able to write and record in the same moment, being already tied to a studio.

The rate of propulsion has been astonishingly quick for DSC. First, the demos; then, the label interest (from the likes of Independiente); followed by a swift formation of the band in order to translate the live experience. Within weeks there were mini tours, a support slot with Glasvegas, a top ‘unsigned’ chart spot in a national paper, and even a placing in the final of Channel 4’s Road To V competition. The latter invitation was politely declined, though, a decision Burn still doesn’t regret - “I wouldn’t want DSC to be introduced to anyone by means of winning a competition.”

Fervour and anticipation have been growing ever since, as has DSC’s team of notoriety. Geoff Barrowdale, manager of Arctic Monkeys, is now pulling the strings. “He’s brilliant, we’re really lucky to have him,” Burn reveals, providing the distinction, “the honeymoon period is over and we just want to move on to saying he’s not the Monkeys’ manager, he’s our manager.”

Added to DSC’s solid team is the co-production input of Mike Crossey, also known for balancing the creativity of Razorlight, Foals and the Dead 60s. DSC’s rising success is therefore almost assured and they’re pointing in all the right directions. During the summer there’s a scheduled jaunt to the States “just to get a presence known” before returning home for a promising winter. Work on the album begins in November which is preceded in October by the release of their hypnotic single, ‘Rivers & Rainbows’.

London's best jazz clubs

As seen on Spire.com

Whilst the historical Ronnie Scott's might be London’s most renowned jazz club, it has lost much of its former glory since going under new mamangement in recent times. For a more authentic groovy night out, check out some of London’s other musical hot spots.

1) 606 Club
A slice of New Orleans soul, only in London. The 606 has got pedigree, it’s been around for 30 years, and it’s right up there with the big boys as one of London’s best. Jazz fans often refer to that all-important element of ‘cool’ and The 606 has it in abundance. This is how jazz clubs should be: hard to find (set in an industrial neighbourhood near Chelsea Harbour’s back alleys); an up-close and personal vibe with the artistes; plus, cosy without being crowded. Even gaining entry has an element of mystery to it. At the gated archway you’re buzzed in via an intercom before descending a staircase into a bare-brick basement. What you find is beatnik chic - all low ceilings, rough concrete, dusty curtains, and scruffy tables gathered around a non-stage (the band performs on your level). The food and wine selection are nothing to write home about but the grilled halibut fillet with tomato coulis, fennel and zuchini is worth trying. Plus, there’s roughly a dozen of each wine color to try. 

www.606club.co.uk

2) The Pigalle Club
The Pigalle couldn’t be more central if it tried. Perfect if, like me, you love Mayfair and Regent Street. Vince Power is in charge; he who founded the Mean Fiddler Group which owns a large chunk of London’s music venues. Basically, he knows what he’s doing. The subterranean 1940s supper club authenticity is picture perfect. Table service comes from staff dressed in costumes befitting the era, the wood and mirror decor is indicative of the glitz and glam of old, and occasionally big name acts such as Van Morrison, Ertha Kitt and Shirley Bassey grace the stage (if not them, then the glut of rising lounge and jazz talent will easily wow you). It’s quite a big venue but owing to its peculiar shape it still has that cosy feeling I like so much about jazz clubs. The modern European menu really plays second fiddle to the music, so grab a spot on the mezzanine for the best view of the stage (the side view can be a little restricted).

www.vpmg.net/pigalle


3) The Dover Street Restaurant & Bar
Great for gals looking for a fun night out with girlfriends. Don’t be fooled into thinking that just because this venue is in Mayfair it’ll be class and elegance all the way. This is one for the masses. The service is unpredictable, the French/European cuisine is decidely average, the bar area is nearly always limited for space, and it can feel a bit like dining in a nightclub. Yes, this is definitely not a civilsed event. Despite all this, however, the music is excellent. Every night there’s a real party atmosphere due to a blend of jazz, blues, latin and soul and once you’ve eaten your mediocre dinner you’re encouraged to dance the night away. It did win Visit London’s Gold Award for Live Entertainment in 2005 and has been running for 28 years so something has to be working.

www.doverst.co.uk


4) Le Quecum Bar & Brasserie
This is the quintessential ‘hidden gem’. I’d heard this place was on the left side of leftfield and I wasn’t dissapointed. It’s location is very anti-West End - just across the river from Fulham and Chelsea - which gives it an added bohemian edge. It’s ornately decorated to look like a 1920s Parisian wine bar and has a secluded patio area to give it that sud de la France aura. The food is typically French - snails, pate, beef bourguignon, coq au vin and alike - as is the wine. The staff love their music and will chatter about it non-stop given the chance. This does mean their level of service can dip occasionally though and the waitressing is notoriously slow. But, much like the Dover Street bar, this is all about the music and the atmosphere and passionate bands play Django Reinhardt’s casual Hot Club gypsy jazz, which makes it London’s only venue to do so.

www.quecumbar.co.uk


5) Octave
What’s great about this small and sophisticated venue is that it not only offers fantastic live music six nights a week but it’s also a great place to drink and dine. I thoroughly recommend the cuisine, which has a modern European slant, especially for its presentation and quality. As long as they’re still on the menu, opt for the fried chorizo entrée followed by the butterfish with mashed potato main: delicious. The service is attentive but not cloying and the cocktail list is impressive with some 70+ to choose from. Tucked away in a quiet part of Covent Garden, Octave is a relative newcomer to London having only been open since 2004. This doesn’t mean it’s unpopular though; quite the opposite. It can get very busy, especially at weekends, so arrive early and book a table ahead of time. The crowd is trendy and laid back, but annoyingly some people tend to chat during the performances. Check their website before you go to see who's playing as the acts can vary in taste.

www.octave8.com

7) Vortex Jazz
If you’re adamantly traditional about your jazz, it might be best to avoid Vortex. If, however, you’re open to a few fresh, progressive ideas then the word comes on great authority that Vortex has a distinct blend of styles, age and ethnicity. Contemporary jazz is the agenda, in a broad range of formats. Folky, improv, world, big band - it’s all there and names like Sir John Dankworth and Dame Cleo Laine, Evan Parker, Tim Berne, F-IRE Collective, Polar Bear and Zoe Rahmann have all made an appearance or two. Despite being 21 years old, Vortex has a noticeable young vibe and is almost too fashionable for its own good; which is indicative of the Dalston area itself, hastily becoming THE trendy hangout in the capital. The interior is fairly standard - romantic candlelit tables and butt-numbing furniture - but the large blue glass fronting is very unique, in a fishbowl sort of way. On the down side the bar is limited, at best, and the toilet situation could be a lot better.

www.vortexjazz.co.uk


8) The Boisdale Jazz & Cigar Club
Simply put, The Boisdale’s main concerns are meat, smoke, whisky and jazz. If you’re not particularly fussed by at least two of these then The Boisdale will not be to your liking. OK yes, it is primarily a restaurant and yes, it is a members club but that shouldn’t deter you from witnessing some traditional jazz. For a nominal ‘jazz charge’, non-members are allowed to dine in the restaurant or position themselves at the bar after 10pm to see the house band - Richard Pite’s Boisdale Blue Rhythm Band, a quartet/quintet playing 30s-50s old style jazz and blues. Be warned, booking a spot at the bar is not an option. So, dinner it is then. The fare is mainly Scotland-sourced so steak and wild salmon are a must, unless the haggis and neeps take your fancy. This is a Belgravia townhouse and as such is just moments away from The Palace - yes, THAT Palace - so naturally it exudes class and sophistication. Chesterfield sofas are filled with business folk, ex-pats and university graduates, many of whom will retire to the cigar terrace on the top floor to sample one of the hundreds of Cubans available. And then there’s the cocktails, wines and whiskies; again, literally hundreds to choose from.

www.boisdale.co.uk


9) Pizza on the Park & Jazz @ Pizza Express
Ignore the doubts that the word ‘pizza’ might cast upon your assumptions. Although this is far from the glitz and glamour of Ronnie Scott’s or The Pigalle, this pairing packs a big punch when it comes to music. Especially Jazz @ Pizza Express which has, in recent years, welcomed venerable guests such as Roy Haynes, Kenny Garrett, Scott Hamilton, Norah Jones, Jamie Cullum, Diana Krall, Amy Winehouse, and Peter Cincotti. Clearly, pizza is not the only thing on people’s mind. It had a refurb a few years back, which was probably needed seeing as it’s been going since 1965. The stage is tiny so you really get that up-close-and-personal aspect that many of the larger clubs dont have, which is great considering it’s in the heart of the West End. Unlike Jazz @ Pizza Express, Pizza on the Park in not a seven-day-a-week jazz joint. The performers are usually lesser known and only appear a couple of times a week. It is, however, a candlelit basement but of much larger proportions. As it’s owned by the same booking company, it too had a major renovation a little while ago. The menu is simple and Italian and the wine list covers both new and old world quite well for a pizza place.

www.pizzaexpresslive.co.uk


10) The Brickhouse
Although not strictly a jazz-only establishment, this restaurant-cum-supper club is still well worth a visit. Especially as it’s housed in such an interesting building and located in such an intriguing part of town. The converted warehouse space in Brick Lane’s Old Truman Brewery is long, tall and unusually bright for this sort of venue. It’s set on three levels with the upper most of these acting almost as a viewing gallery....with beds! The entertainment varies from week to week so check their webpage before venturing - sharing the billing with jazz acts are circus acrobats, sexy burlesque dancers, hip hop choreographers and comedians. Tip: opt for the dining experience on the middle floor and choose the red mullet with crab tortellini and Bouillabaisse sauce.

www.thebrickhouse.co.uk

The Hoxton Pony

104-108 Curtain Road, Shoreditch

May 2008 was the date when the winds changed direction. One tatty Pool bar was badly in need of an overhaul (I dare you to argue otherwise) and along came a spot of talent, a dash of vision and a suitcase bursting with cash. Et voila, c’est la shifting winds. One Gerry Calabrese - former overlord to joints like Meet, Roast, the Cinnamon Club - joined forces with good pal Andy Pearson - allegedly the reigning UK Bartenders Guild National champion - and cooked up a big fat juicy pie of distinction. The crust of this pie was a smartly designed interior with a music-based filling. The designer - a former Ralph Lauren creative boffin - was given a handful of tunes and told “do that, but in bar form”. What he returned with was class without the la-di-da; neither ridiculous opulence nor shabby chic. Whilst seventy grand was spent just on glass alone, a load of scrap metal was whacked in as well to give it some of that juxtaposition stuff.

The upstairs is 60s conceptual art masquerading as non-coherent mess; but that’s the point. This is really an art installation that happens to serve the odd drink or two. I was befriended at the bar by a drunk trying to make sense of the stuffed owl scene behind it. See, sounds intriguing, right?

The descent into the basement cant make up its mind which after-life it likes best: big mirrors and white floors sing praises to the heavens yet at the same time it’s hotter than the Devil’s toaster. The floor has been sunk specifically for the purpose of boogey so I’m inclined to think the latter.

To say the music policy is broad would be like saying kids are rather partial to sweets. The DJ gobs out the full gamut of genres so if you’re looking to get into indie-rock, dub-dance ,ska-soul, kitsch-pop, beatbox, downbeat, upbeat, backbeat or deadbeat then this could well be your way in. And needless to say, as it’s Shoreditch, they’re required by law to play electro after midnight.

In terms of booze they have beers, wines, blah, blah and COCKTAILS!!! Boy, do they have cocktails! The Hoxton Ponies invented the world of cocktails. They’ve only been hiding it from us until now because they feared humanity might implode as a result of the shock. I saw a young whippersnapper of a gent naively making a bottle of BoringBeer his chosen beverage for the evening. The fool. You can lead a horse to water but..... This idiot had chosen to ignore the extensive range of bottles on the shelf - who knows what was in them, but it looked mighty impressive - as well as the highly original cocktail wallpaper right next to it. Yes, that’s ‘cocktail’ and ‘wallpaper’. Drink options printed on the wall and changed every 3 months. Meaning, you stare at it, you say “I want it”, you adhere to the element of continual freshness. Got it? It’s like Willa Wonka for adults. Bespoke creations designed by the Oompa-Loompa bar staff using weird science-project infusion liquids from jars that, guess what, they made themselves. Example: the Lady Grey is concocted with an alcoholic tea essence and what appears to be a sprinkle of magic unicorn dust. And they serve drinks in teacups. How delightfully cool.

The food is equally difficult to resist but on this front it’s very much “Oi oi East End boozer” fare. Only with a twist. The open plan kitchen whizzes out great plates until late. Posh pies, posh fish n chips and posh mashy-not-mushy peas. Done.

So who’s there? Should we make sweeping generalisations about ‘Shoreditch types’? Well, if you really have to then knock yourself out (please) but it’s not such a good look any more. Try the ‘something for everyone’ on for size, feels dangerous doesn’t it? Is a mix bag such a bad thing? Tuesday sees pairs of ladies chatting their way through the night. Whereas come Friday, the Liverpool Street suit stranglers and the crazy jeans kids are in town. Overall, the occupancy is favoured heavily in the ladies corner (about 65%) so lads, take note. And of them about 100% are made of sugar and spice and all things nice and roughly 100% of them like to shake their boo-tay. Be mindful though boys, you need to try harder with the threads, you’re letting the side down.

Overall tips: use the side stairs to get to the loos as crossing the perilous dancefloor will ensure your martini ends up covering more of it than you will; plus, save precious eye-catching time by ignoring the wait at the bar and opting for table service instead. “Do you come here often?”